Update

It's been a while since my last post, but just wanted to add a quick update to the Blog. Firstly, I have recently purchased a DSLR base plate with standard rods from a supplier in Hong Kong via eBay. Usually these things retail for around £150 minimum, but I paid about £58 so very pleased about that. The beauty of these things is that they allow for better positioning of my DFocus follow focus and also, at a later date, it is easy to adapt it into a full shoulder rig too.

Here is a quick picture of it:


As can be seen from the picture, as I have a battery grip on the 550D, the rods become too low to allow the gears on the FF to match up with the lens gear. Therefore, I sourced an additional pair of 6" rods and a riser from eBay to effectively "lift" the FF up closer to the lens. One can obtain something called the "DRISER" from Jag35.com to do the same thing, but this actually works out more expensive than buying two rods and an adaptor!

I also fitted the DSLR base plate with a Manfrotto quick release plate so that it can be quickly detached from the tripod.

Also looking at purchasing either a Canon 28mm f1.8 USM lens or Sigma 30mm f1.4 lens but can't decide which one. The Canon is probably slightly better than the Sigma, but the Sigma is a little bit "faster" with its 1.4 aperture.

Very recently also bought a new microphone too. I didn't want a shotgun as I can borrow these quite easily, but did want a cheap hypercardioid mic for indoor work. The choices are either the AKG CK93 capsule on the SE300 body (about £300), or the AT 4053b (about £450 ish), the Oktava MK-012 or going much more expensive, something from Schoeps. I didn't want to spend a great deal, and was lucky enough to find some end of the line Studio Electronics SE2A true condenser mics with three capsules (OMNI, CARDIOID and HYPER-CARDIOID) for only £75. The mic is lightweight and seems to perform well.

Timelapse video

Been playing again with creating timelapse video sequences and now I understand the process much better.

Firstly, unless you really need the extra resolution (i.e. perhaps you plan to zoom in on a section of video for example), then the camera can be set to its lowest JPEG image setting. In the case of my 550D this happened to be 2592 x 1728 which is obviously much higher than is needed for standard 1080P HD video.

Secondly, as most DSLR cameras take their pictures with an aspect ratio of 3:2, we need to ensure that when exporting the image sequence to 1920 x 1080, that the aspect ratio is preserved, otherwise horizontal stretching will occur.

Any way, the way I carried out my timelapse was to record a series of images every 5 seconds (using Magic Lantern's built in intervalometer) and to simply then take these into Quicktime Player 7 using its "OPEN IMAGE SEQUENCE" option.

Upon doing this, a window will appear asking what frame rate to use - I simply chose the standard PAL of 25fps.

The sequence can then be exported and I chose to use Apple ProRes LT (in case I wanted to take the finished video in a FCP project) with a resolution of 1920 x 1080. IMPORTANT: you need to make sure that PRESERVE ASPECT RATIO using CROP is selected to ensure that the resultant video file is not stretched.

Job done!

Canon 5D MKIII or 6D?

Been thinking lately about whether to jump to full frame and get the 5D MKII. Currently (Sept '11), you can snap (excuse the pun) a 5D MKII and 24 to 105 f/4 IS L lens for around £2100. This fairly large discount must be due to the imminent arrive of the 5D MKIII or its equivalent.

I watched a few comparison videos last night looking at the features of the 5D MKII and the 7D and from these, what I have learnt is that I'd like a full frame version of the 7D and not really the 5D MKII which has a few outdated features.

I therefore came across a few rumours of a "6D", which will be a lower priced full frame DSLR with perhaps the features of the existing 7D :)

Hopefully this will happen soon......

DSLR Cinema

I've recently been told about a new book called DSLR Cinema by Kurt Lancaster. Looks good and have ordered a copy....

Field of view tool

This is an excellent tool for showing the difference between different sensor sizes and how it affects the field of view. Wish there was one to show DoF too.

http://www.abelcine.com/fov/

Glidetrack Shooter SD

Just purchased a Glidetrack Shooter SD from Alistair @ www.glidetrack.com. I cannot recommend this product highly enough - it is simply an awesome piece of kit, especially when linked with the Manfrotto 577QR quick release place and Manfrotto 701HDV head.

Here are few videos I have shot with it recently:

http://www.vimeo.com/17981477

http://www.vimeo.com/17979791

http://www.vimeo.com/17953967

1/30s Shutter?

Due to the 180 degree shutter used in film cameras, the optimum shutter speed on a digital SLR should usually be around 1/2n where n = frame rate. For PAL 25fps therefore, the shutter should be 1/50s. If you shoot with a higher shutter than this, you can get very "staccato" looking images, especially during fast motion shots. However, what about shooting at the camera's minimum of 1/30s? The image might become too soft and there might be too much motion blur, however it's something I am going to try soon. The benefit of this is that for low light shooting, you can get away with a lower ISO or smaller aperture.....

Posted a demonstration video showing different shutter speeds at my Vimeo pages: www.vimeo.com/digitalvideoslr